Decking Fastener Recommendations

At J&W Lumber we have a wide variety of fasteners available to us. We take every effort to recommend the best fastener for the product based upon our own experience as well as that of qualified contractors.

Below is a list of products and recommended fasteners:

Fiberon

• Professional/Tropics - Grooved
  • Phantom Fastener System
  • TrapEase II #8 x 2 ½” Stainless or Color coded for toe screws or edges
• Professional/Tropics - UnGrooved
  • TrapEase II #8 x 2 ½” Stainless or Color coded
  • SplitStop Star Drive Titan 3 minimum #8 x 2 ½”
  • Quik Drive Composi-Lok Composite Screw minimum #9 x 2 ½”

Trex

• Contours
  • TrapEase II – minimum #8 x 2 1/2” Stainless or Color Coded composite screw
  • SplitStop Star Drive Titan 3 minimum #8 x 2 ½”
  • Quik Drive Composi-Lok Composite Screw minimum #9 x 2 ½”
  • FastenMaster Cortex Hidden Fastener System
• Origins
  • TrapEase II – minimum #8 x 2 1/2” Stainless or Color Coded composite screw
  • SplitStop Star Drive Titan 3 minimum #8 x 2 ½”
  • Quik Drive Composi-Lok Composite Screw minimum #9 x 2 ½”
• Accents/Accents Fire Defense and Brasilia
  • 5/4
    • TrapEase II – minimum #8 x 2 1/2” Stainless or Color Coded composite
    • SplitStop Star Drive Titan 3 minimum #8 x 2 ½”
    • Quik Drive Composi-Lok Composite Screw minimum #9 x 2 ½”
    • FastenMaster Cortex Hidden Fastener System w/ 2 ½”
  • 2x6
    • TrapEase II – minimum #8 x 3”” Stainless or Color Coded composite
    • SplitStop Star Drive Titan 3 minimum #8 x 3”
    • Quik Drive Composi-Lok Composite Screw minimum #8 x 3”
    • FastenMaster Cortex Hidden Fastener System w/ 3”
• Brasilia with Groove
  • Trex Hideaway Hidden Fastener System
• Escapes
  • FastenMaster SS TrimTop Screws minimum #8 x 2 ½”

TimberTech

• Floorizon Vertigrain
  • TrapEase – minimum #8 x 2 1/2” Stainless or Color Coded composite screw
  • SplitStop Star Drive Titan 3 minimum #8 x 2 ½”
  • Quik Drive Composi-Lok Composite Screw minimum #8 x 2 ½”
• TwinFinish Classic
  • TrapEase II – minimum #8 x 2 1/2” Stainless or Color Coded composite screw
  • SplitStop Star Drive Titan 3 minimum #8 x 2 ½”
  • Quik Drive Composi-Lok Composite Screw minimum #8 x 2 ½”
  • FastenMaster Cortex Hidden Fastener System
• TwinFinish Square Edge/Earthwood Grooved
  • TimberTech CONCEALoc Hidden Fasteners
• Twin Finish Square Edge/Earthwood Solid
  • TrapEase II – minimum #8 x 2 1/2” Stainless or Color Coded composite screw
  • SplitStop Star Drive Titan 3 minimum #8 x 2 ½”
  • Quik Drive Composi-Lok Composite Screw minimum #8 x 2 ½”
  • FastenMaster Cortex Hidden Fastener System
• DockSider Plank
  • TrapEase II– minimum #8 x 3” Stainless or Color Coded composite screw
  • SplitStop Star Drive Titan 3 #8 x 3”
  • Quik Drive Composi-Lok Composite Screw #8 x 3”

Hardwoods

• Ipe
  • 1x and 5/4 preferred #10 x 2 ½” Brown Flat Head, min. #8 x 2 ½” SS Trimhead
  • 2x6 #10 x 3” FlatHead, min. #9 x 3” Flathead
• Mangaris™Diamond
  • 1x and 5/4 #10 x 2 ½” HeadCote FlatHead – Brown head color
• Masaranduba
  • 1x and 5/4 preferred #10 x 2 ½” Bugle Head, min. #8 x 2 ½” SS Trimhead

Redwood/Cedar

• 5/4
  • Guard Dog #8 x 2 ½”
• 2x4, 2x6
  • Guard Dog #8 x 3”

[Back to Top]

Seven feet to daylight

Here’s a phrase you may hear a carpenter mention when referring to the placement or depth of post footings on a steep hillside. While this is just a “rule of thumb”, most municipalities abide by this rule. As always you should verify that your community recognizes this method. The bottom fore most edge of the post hole should be a minimum of 7 feet (measured horizontally) until it reaches the slope of the hillside. This depth should provide sufficient support for most deck footings.

[Back to Top]

Softwood Lumber Sizes Explained

Nominal sizes are not the same as actual or net sizes… Softwood lumber is customarily referred to by nominal sizes such as 1x6, 2x4, 4x4 and so on. In these descriptions, the first number represents the thickness; the second number represents the width. It is important to note that what we call a 2x4 or 1x6 is usually a piece of lumber smaller than it’s nominal size. The American Softwood Lumber Standard (ALS) published by the U.S. Department of Commerce, establishes the standard sizes for most commonly used lumber products.

ALS provides for dry and green dimensions…

The table below lists selected nominal lumber sizes and shows the corresponding actual sizes for both dry (19% or less moisture content) and green (unseasoned) surfaced lumber.

Green sizes are slightly greater than dry sizes because lumber has a tendency to shrink as it dries. The green sizes are suchthat a piece of green lumber, surfaced to a standar size, will shrink to approximately the standard dry size as it dries down to about 15% moisture content. Lumber products may be to any size; however, products that do not conform to ALS standard sizes should have their actual sizes indicated on invoices, grade marks, unit labels, end tags and store signs. Failure to properly label products can lead to fines and/or litigation. It is the manufacturers responsibility to properly represent lumber sizes.

For example: A nominal 2x2 with an actual dry, surfaced size of 1 ½” x 1 ½” can properly be labeled a 2x2. If this same item is milled to an actual size of 1 3/8” x 1 3/8”, it cannot be referred to as a 2x2; and it should be referred to by it’s actual size on labels, invoices, signage and advertisements.

Lumber surfaces can vary….
Lumber may be produced with a variety of surface textures. Smooth-surfaced lumber is planed on one or more sides. Saw-textured lumber is sawn to provide its textured appearance and may be the same size or slightly smaller than surfaced lumber.
Rough lumber has been sawed but not surfaced. It is greater in both thickness and width than surfaced lumber to allow for further milling or manufacturing.
Many popular items, such as fence boards, posts and rails, are sawn to surfaced sizes yet have a saw-textured appearance. These products should not be confused with rough lumber.

For more information on softwood lumber sizes, contact: http://www.calredwood.org/

[Back to Top]

The Carpenter’s Triangle

The key part in laying out a deck or patio cover is making certain that the project is square to the house and that the sides of the deck are square to each other. An out-of-square layout will cause problems throughout the project: footings in the wrong place, skewed posts and beams, joists of uneven lengths and uneven decking patterns. Take care in the layout, but don’t worry if the deck is ¼” off, no one will know unless you tell them.
Make a square layout by making right angles at the corners. Framing squares are great for making right angles but they’re too small to accurately square the long lengths needed for a deck or patio cover.	Measure and mark 3 feet along the house or ledger from the corner you establish. Measure and mark the mason’s string with a piece of masking tape at the 4 foot mark. Place the hook end of your tape measure at the mark on the wall and measure diagonally to the mark on the string. Adjust the position of the string on the batterboard opposite the wall until this measurement is exactly 5 feet. The corner will be square.
Use simple geometry known as the “3-4-5” Carpenter’s Triangle. A triangle with sides that measure 3, 4 and 5 feet has a right angle in the corner where the 3 and 4 foot sides meet. Multiples of 3-4-5 also work, such as 6-8-10, 9-12-15 etc. Use any measure of measurement, such as inches or yards, but feet seem to work best for deck layout. Get the best accuracy by using the largest triangle possible. Make reference marks at the correct distances on the string using marked pieces of masking tape.
For a freestanding deck first establish a string line on batterboards that represent one side of the deck. Place another set of batterboards and mason’s string so the two strings intersect at the corner location. Measure and place a piece of marked masking tape on the first string at a multiple of 6. Measure from the corner and place another piece of tape at the 8 foot measurement on the second string. The distance between the marks on a diagonal should be 10 feet Move the second string on the opposite corner batterboard to adjust as necessary and the corner will be square. Repeat for other corners and then double check for square by assuring that the diagonal measurements across your deck are equal.

[Back to Top]

General Building Tips

When building outdoors with preserved wood, it's important to follow special construction practices, precautions, and maintenance procedures in order to get the most out of your finished product and protect it for years to come.

General building tips for pressure treated wood

• Hot-dip galvanized, stainless steel or corrosion-resistant wood fasteners should be used to protect against corrosion and premature wear.
• The finished product must be protected from moisture and sun damage.
• Most important, the project must be built safely and in accordance with state and local building codes.

Before beginning your outdoor construction project using pressure treated wood, please make sure to review all building tips, consumer information, handling precautions, and care and maintenance recommendations presented in this section.
When you choose pressure treated wood for your outdoor construction project, you'll want to be sure to follow quality craftsman guidelines for an excellent finished appearance and durability. Here are some helpful tips to make your project easier to build, last longer, and look attractive.

Use Hot-dip Galvanized Fasteners/Adhesive

Use hot-dip galvanized or stainless steel nails, screws, ACQ approved fasteners or HDG bolts when working with wood products treated with Osmose preservatives. These types of fasteners are corrosion resistant and will reduce the risk of rust stains on your project. Adhesives add extra holding power. If you choose to use adhesives apply in accordance with manufacturers' directions.

When Appearance Permits, Nail Bark Side Up

As a general rule, nail boards bark side up (frown down) to reduce cupping. If a defect in the wood is noticeable, however, the best face should be placed up. Fasten thin boards to thicker boards to maintain structural integrity.

Drill Pilot Holes

To help minimize splitting of the wood, it's a good idea to drill pilot holes for your fasteners, especially when nailing near the edge or end of a board.

Deck Board Spacing

The moisture content of pressure treated wood products can vary. If the moisture content of the treated wood is high, deck boards should be butted together because spaces will occur between the boards as they lose moisture content in service. If the wood has been kiln dried after treatment or otherwise has low moisture content a 1/8” spacing is recommended.

Use an End Cut Preservative

Brush a wood preservative on all saw cuts and into drill holes during construction of wood projects. This is also recommended for any areas where moisture can collect. Using end cut preservative is required under the Osmose Lifetime Limited Warranty.

After Care

[Back to Top]